We have seen this in the likes of young rarities like Simon Port Jacquemus and a young Nicolas Ghesquière who once took the reins from Belgian creative director of Balenciaga, Josephus Thimister in the 1990s. The ICOSAE collective seem to be the new generation of an interesting shift in menswear.
The menswear collective made of Valentin Glémarec, Anthony Hor and Florentin Glémarec offer a lucid and elegant offering to a new generation of menswear.
The Spring/Summer 16 collection entitled SWEAT DREAMS tell the story of the phenomenon of sleep paralysis in which a person, either falling asleep or awakening, temporarily experiences the inability to move, speak, or react. It is a transitional state between wakefulness and sleep. The season offers warped static silhouettes with atmospheric movement building a theme that reconstructs strict uniforms with subtle movement in fabric compositions. The trio collaborated with Australian born Parisian art director John Ibrahim to present the collection.
“It is refreshing to see a sense of youth an revolt in Paris without losing a sense of romance and elegance. Finally kids are cool again! ” said Ibrahim.
SWEAT DREAMS 16 includes a range of prints and patchwork all painted in house. The print of the season is a painting entitled LITTLE POÏ (Chant OI, OI) serenades the collection by offering a melancholic nod to the British punk movement.
“ There is an element of punk in our work, we all met in skate parks and skated in fully tailored clothing. Elegance is punk, strictness in uniform is punk. We are born into the generation of street wear where we can take from it, but also have a right to refuse it. We see a great element of uniform and pride in Icosae. Accepting a generation of mass consumers can be difficult so we like to soften the world a little by offering long lasting pieces that can be passed down to generations. We still own some garments that belong to our ancestors.”
Lucid walking to ear busting ambient techno serenaded a range of tailored pants, patchwork shirting, summer coats made in fluid fabrics and a series of linens and easy to breathe fabrics including cotton jersey, wool, linen and selection of nylons.
“Our family is from Brittany and our grandfather (seen in campaign) was a marine that represented the people of France. We still have an archive of clothing we often look to for referencing when it comes to our practice in tailoring. We don’t look to the past often but we certainly like to respect the craft of tailoring and its devotion to time. This is why we make our clothes in France.”
Photo Yulya Shadrinsky